Island-Hopping in the Mediterranean

Map of Cyprus from Google Maps

Cyprus has been divided east-west since 1974 with Greek population in the southern part (Republic of Cyprus) and the Turkish population in the northern part, "Northern Cyprus". The east-west border goes right through the capital Nicosia.

Since the Middle Ages the island have in turn been ruled by crusaders, the Caliphate, the Byzantine empire, and Venice, but never any local rule. It was a British colony 1878-1960, and from this period stems left-hand driving and British plugs. There are still several British military bases on the island.

1963-1964 saw major violence between the Greek and Turkish populations. In 1974 a Greek military junta took over in Greece (NATO member) and wanted to include all of Cyprus in Greece. Turkey (also a NATO member) reacted with a full military attack and occupied the northern part of the island, contrary to U.N. resolutions. The Turkish military has still large bases in Northern Cyprus.

The northern state is called Northern Cyprus or "Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus". Of all countries in the world, Northern Cyprus' independence is only recognized by Turkey. All other countries regard the area as occupied by Turkey. When discussing these matters with anyone from the south, take care to call it "the occupied areas", not "Northern Cyprus".

There are several offices of transit along the border, and the crossing of the border is rather quick and uncomplicated.

North and South have in common:

• British plugs (from the British colonial rule)
• Driving side left and steering wheel in right side (from the British colonial rule)
• Cars for rental have red registration plates (to show "Here comes a tourist")
• Time zone UTC+2 (i.e. as Greece, not as UTC+3 as Turkey)

Republic of Cyprus (south):

• 80 percent of the island's population
• Orthodox Christian faith dominating
• EU member, Euro currency

Northern Cyprus:

• 23 percent of the island's population
• Muslim faith dominating
• Turkish lira currency
• Average income 44 per cent of the income in Republic of Cyprus

Northern Cyprus differs from mainland Turkey:

• There is not much interchange of cars. Only few Turkish cars (steering wheel in left side) are seen in Northern Cyprus, and only few Northern Cyprus cars (steering wheel in right side) are seen on the mainland.
• In Northern Cyprus are many declarations of friendship with Turkey, but not the declarations of devotion to president Erdoğan which are ubiquitous on the mainland

Sadly, the island only offers a few of the old ports that I searched for. In the south, the large coastal towns Larnarca and Limassol are dominated by high-rises along the coast - as on the southern coast of Turkey or Costa del Sol in Spain.

I only found old ports in Paphos in the south and Girne in the north. In my opinion the Turkish part of Nicosia is the most interesting area on the whole island, but Nicosia is not a coastal town, alas.

There are different names in the different languages, adding to the confusion:

The harbour in Paphos, Cyprus. There are no ferry connections to or from the Republic of Cyprus.

There are two ferry companies connecting Girne and the Turkish mainland.

The commercial port in Girne. The word for "port" in Turkish is "liman", which is a Greek word used in many languages in this part of the Mediterranean. In the background is seen an east-west mountain range that follows the northern coast. It is visible from all over Cyprus.

The old port in Girne with the fort behind it. Here are several good restaurants and cafés. In the background is the commercial harbour.

From the northern coast

From the northern coast. A strange kind of cliff that is floating slowly into the sea.

Entering the commercial harbour

From the old town

Fira's Latin name is "Santorini".

Fira is an island with a volcano past. Fira and the ajoining island Thirasia form a circle, and the rest of the volcano is buried in the sea. Google Maps.

Arrival of the ferry from Crete

If you want people around you, go to Fira!

Honeymoon at Fira

Café at the harbour